Autumn is when the Irati Forest reveals its most spectacular side. As temperatures begin to fall, the Irati Forest, one of Europe's largest and best-preserved beech and fir forests, transforms into a mosaic of yellows, ochres, oranges and reds that changes from week to week. The result is a captivating landscape best explored at a leisurely pace, on foot and with time to stop and take it all in. For that reason, it's worth turning your visit into an overnight stay, or even several nights, at one of the nearby accommodations. This allows you to make the most of your time exploring the trails, the Irabia Reservoir and villages such as Ochagavía and Orreaga/Roncesvalles, before returning to the comfort of a warm room at the end of the day.
Irati, the destination that defines autumn in Navarre
The Irati Forest stretches across the Salazar and Aezkoa valleys, offering very different landscapes depending on the route you choose. The mix of beech, oak and fir trees enhances the autumn colours, turning every trail into a unique experience. The forest never looks exactly the same from one year to the next, and that changing character is part of its appeal.
To fully appreciate it, it's worth staying nearby and spending several days combining hiking routes, viewpoints and visits to local villages. During October and throughout autumn, it makes an ideal destination for long weekends and flexible getaways.
Six hotels to wake up surrounded by colours
Staying in the Irati area allows you to start your day early, avoid lengthy journeys and enjoy much more than the forest itself. Below are six options on both the Navarrese and French sides of the Pyrenees. They include historic rural accommodations, family-friendly hotels and places designed for relaxation after a day spent among the autumn foliage. Their common strengths are location, comfort and a close connection to the surrounding landscape.
Silken Puerta de Irati (Ochagavía)
Located on the edge of the forest, this hotel in Ochagavía is an ideal base for exploring Irati. It offers 37 rooms across various categories and features a contemporary design that subtly incorporates elements of the Pyrenean landscape.
Its facilities make it suitable for both couples and families. The location provides easy access to trails in the Salazar Valley, while also allowing guests to explore the village's traditional streets, bridges and stone houses. After a day outdoors, visitors can return to a comfortable setting without lengthy transfers.
Basque Irati Rural Hotel (Espinal)
Situated in the heart of the Navarrese Pyrenees, Espinal offers a peaceful setting ideal for unwinding, and this accommodation makes the most of its surroundings with facilities designed for relaxation.
The soundproofed rooms overlook either the mountains or the garden, while the outdoor areas invite guests to linger well into the afternoon. The bar and café serve breakfasts and lunches featuring local products, an added benefit when combining nature and local traditions. Its location also makes it easy to visit both Irati and Roncesvalles, as well as sections of the Camino de Santiago.
Hotel Rural Aribe Irati (Aribe)
This small hotel occupies a restored stone-and-wood house dating from 1716, retaining many original features that give it plenty of character.
Its location, close to the Irati Forest and the woodlands around Garralda and Aribe, makes it ideal for a getaway centred on nature. Hiking trails begin nearby and provide opportunities to discover the area's landscape, traditions and heritage. The hotel also offers a garden, bar and tourist information service, making it easier to combine walking routes with cultural visits. It's perfect for those who appreciate history and authenticity without straying from the main autumn route.
Hostal Arostegui (Garaioa)
A simple and peaceful option, this guesthouse offers seven rooms – six doubles and one single – all with private bathrooms.
Its location provides easy access to the Aezkoa Valley and attractions such as the historic Orbaizeta Arms Factory and Roncesvalles. The proximity to the Camino de Santiago adds further appeal for travellers looking to combine forest landscapes, heritage sites and marked walking trails. It's an ideal place to spend the day outdoors and enjoy a quiet evening afterwards.
Roncesvalles Inn (Orreaga/Roncesvalles)
Staying in Roncesvalles adds an extra historical dimension to the trip. The hotel occupies the former Casa de los Beneficiados, built in 1725 and carefully restored while preserving its original character.
All rooms are exterior-facing, and apartments are also available, making it a practical option for families. The restaurant focuses on seasonal products and regional cuisine, perfectly suited to an autumn escape. From here, visitors can combine time in the forest with visits to the Collegiate Church and the legendary setting of the Camino de Santiago.
Logis Hôtel Les Sources de La Nive (Estérençuby, France)
Across the border, in the Nive Valley, this hotel offers impressive views of the French Pyrenees.
Surrounded by nature, it features a garden, restaurant, seasonal outdoor pool, sauna and hot tub. It provides an excellent base for combining the Irati forests with visits to villages in the French Basque Country and leisurely mountain walks. The setting encourages a slower pace and offers an ideal way to end the day with a relaxing bath.
What to do beyond the forest: hiking trails, reservoir and villages
Once settled near Irati, it's easy to divide your time between the beech and fir forest and the Irabia Reservoir, one of the area's most popular spots during the height of autumn.
It's also worth reserving time for a stroll through Ochagavía, with its traditional character, and Roncesvalles, where the area's rich heritage adds another dimension to the visit. The variety of trails allows each day to be adapted to the weather or your energy levels. And because the forest never presents the same landscape twice, even repeat visits to familiar viewpoints can feel entirely different.
When to go and how to plan your trip
The changing colours of autumn are Irati's greatest attraction, making the October bank holiday weekend a particularly popular time to visit. However, any autumn weekend offers the opportunity to enjoy the scenery while avoiding excessive crowds.
It's advisable to book at least two nights, allowing enough time to combine hiking trails, the reservoir and nearby villages at a relaxed pace. Staying close to the forest also makes it possible to start early, avoid peak visitor hours and enjoy the soft afternoon light. With this approach, the experience becomes both more comfortable and more memorable.
Why these six options stand out
All six accommodations share the same goal: bringing the Irati Forest within easy reach. Some stand out for their historical character, with buildings dating back to 1716 and 1725, while others focus on family-friendly facilities or relaxation after a day outdoors.
In every case, the location simplifies logistics and enriches the experience, whether your focus is the beech and fir forests, Roncesvalles or the French side of the Pyrenees. With the right base, the forest becomes more than a day trip and turns into the centrepiece of the entire getaway. That's when autumn in Irati truly comes into its own.
