Tucked away in a picturesque corner of the Pyrenees lies a small town that defies geographical logic and sparks curiosity due to its unique location. Os de Civís, situated in the province of Lleida, is what’s known as a pene-exclave – a place on the Iberian Peninsula that can only be accessed from Spain by passing through another country. Remarkably, the only way to reach this Catalan village is via Andorra.
The Spanish town accessible from Andorra
The small town of Os de Civís, located in the province of Lleida, has a population of just 25 residents, according to the 2024 census. Nestled close to the Andorran border – east of the village – it sits in a remote and mountainous part of the region.
Os de Civís belongs to the town Els Valls del Valira, within the Alt Urgell comarca of Lleida. Surrounded by natural landscapes and rugged peaks, what truly sets this village apart is its unusual status as a pene-exclave: although it lies on Spanish soil, the only way to reach it is through neighbouring Andorra.
What is a pene-exclave?
A pene-exclave is a geographical term referring to a portion of territory that, while officially part of a country, can only be accessed by passing through another. This situation arises when natural features or political boundaries prevent direct overland access from the rest of the country.
Os de Civís is a prime example of a pene-exclave, though similar cases exist elsewhere in the world. One notable instance is the Northwest Angle in the United States – a small area surrounded by lakes and reachable only via Canada. Another is Bolivia’s Manco Kapac province, which is separated from the rest of the country by Lake Titicaca.
How to get to Os de Civís?
To reach Os de Civís by road, there is only one viable option: the CG-6, which forms part of the Andorran road network. This route begins in the town of Sant Julià de Lòria, near Aixovall, and crosses the border without a customs checkpoint before arriving at the village.
Although technically connected to the rest of Spain via the Coll de Conflent, this unpaved mountain track is currently unusable due to its poor condition. It remains the only route by which the village could be reached on foot through the mountains from other settlements in Els Valls del Valira.
Os de Civís's history
Os de Civís was a farming and livestock-rearing village for centuries, living in near-total isolation from the outside world. Its only connection to neighbouring communities was via a remote mountain pass, and it remained without electricity until as late as 1982.
Although it lies within Spanish territory, the daily life of its residents is closely tied to Andorra. Essential services – including road maintenance and education for children who attend Andorran schools – are provided by the neighbouring state.
Today, despite bearing a strong resemblance to nearby Andorran villages such as Bixessarri, Os de Civís is governed under Spanish law and falls under the jurisdiction of the Mossos d'Esquadra, the Catalan regional police.
What to see in Os de Civís?
Os de Civís is a destination that, despite its small size, offers a variety of fascinating attractions. Below is a list of places and activities you can't miss during your visit:
- Sant Pere church: This Romanesque church is one of the town's main attractions. Its simple yet charming architecture reflects the region's history and religious traditions.
- Village streets: Strolling through the streets of Os de Civís is like stepping back in time. The stone houses and flower-filled balconies create a cosy, picturesque atmosphere.
- Natural surroundings: It is an ideal starting point for hiking trails, such as those leading to the Alt Pirineu Natural Park, one of the largest protected areas in Catalonia.
Living in Les Valls del Valira
Living in Les Valls de Valira means embracing life in one of the most peaceful and authentic natural settings of the Catalan Pyrenees. This municipality, which comprises several small villages near the Andorran border, offers a lifestyle defined by tranquillity, a close connection to nature and deep-rooted rural traditions.
Its mountainous landscapes, lush forests and clean mountain air appeal to those in search of a slower pace of life. At the same time, its proximity to Andorra ensures convenient access to services, shops and employment opportunities, without having to give up the calm and charm of a mountain village.